Vancouver to Montana via the Rockies, beats the M25!

Vancouver: a concrete playground, with National Geographic kudos. It is quite simply a mecca for any hipster with a closet interest in the outdoors. No longer will bearded men have to chose between their fixies and a thirty-six speed mountain bike; nor will girls have to go without their organic, soy chai latte before a rock-climbing session. Jogging along Kitsilano beach, brunch in Gastown and a peruse around the shops, all before an afternoon ski session in Whistler - this really is city living for the outdoor enthusiast. And I learned all of this from Vancouver Island’s most avid supporter, I think there’s a little urbanite in him yet.

Lucan’s 4x4 tour of the city was informative, albeit brief; nevertheless, my passenger seat vantage afforded me glimpses of some truly beautiful places in arguably my favourite season. Each year, at this time, Mother Nature coordinates a dance, so beautiful that I can’t help but smile when I see it. She has every performer change from green to orange before executing the perfect pirouette as they free-fall to earth. Whilst I understand that this isn’t a North American phenomenon, I do believe that the wide tree-lined streets and beautifully charismatic houses make for a magical stage in Autumn.

The only place downtown that wasn’t a confetti of oranges, reds and yellows was East Hastings Street. Here, grey was the dominant shade, as Vancouver’s resident drug addicts traded clothes and tidbits on the side of the road. One man who caught my attention was crouching over a package, wearing nothing but ladies knickers and a dirty, ripped crop top - in mid-October. I felt guilty about my unintended voyeurism, but I’m almost certain that they’re oblivious to the spectacle they create. Lucan assures me that they are happier than they look but I can’t say I’m convinced. In a bid to restore van happiness we opted for a little jaunt up the hill and towards Whistler.

As the photosynthesis capital of the world, it wasn’t long before the oxygen had rushed to our heads and we were high on the natural beauty that surrounded us. After an hour of towering trees came Shannon Waterfall and then The Chief (a mountain named for its apparent semblance), from there we passed through Creek Side before arriving at Whistler. Now I’m sorry to anyone that this might offend, but I really wasn’t that impressed. My romantic expectations of a village covered in deep, floury snow, lit by fairy lights were well and truly shattered by the cold, rainy reality. The absence of people and tardy opening times is to be expected during the ‘transitional period’ (or so I was told), but vicious, bored sales assistants are not okay, ever. Perhaps it’s nicer when the slopes are open and the hotels are full, but then again, that’s when the mercury heads south and the frost-bite kicks in, so perhaps I should stop kidding myself.

Whistler Village

Our third and forth days weren’t as eventful, unless you include the click of our first full odometer cycle? By the time we laid our heads to rest at Yellowhead Lake, just outside Jasper National Park, we had clocked over 1,000km, and yet I was certain I’d only blinked once since disembarking the ferry.

The drive

The village of Jasper was very unassuming; pretty shops and quaint cafes lined the high street, as activity bureaus speckled the pavement with boards advertising ski rentals and hiking trails. Tourists drifted around, coffee in hand, enjoying the peace and quiet. After a lazy morning, Lucan and I were up for a little adventure and so we checked out Maligne Lake, before setting off for the ‘Icefields Parkway’. In the past year I have been fortunate enough to see some truly spectacular landscapes: Norwegian fjords; the caves of Phong Nha; mountain passes through Italy and Switzerland; but the Rockies - they’re in a league of their very own!

Maligne Lake area

The piercing contours are a dramatic reminder of how formidable nature really is, and to stretch for 223km ensures that at no point do you question that. Along the way we stopped at a plethora of places which begged for a more powerful camera and a more experienced photographer. Sadly, all I had was a Nikon A1 and plenty of enthusiasm, nevertheless I took some photos knowing that they wouldn’t ever be able to this place justice. It really is beyond comprehension.

Icefields Parkway: stunning!

We thought the Rockies would be a tough act to follow, but Lake Louise put up a fair fight. Although it was a lot smaller than I thought, and far more touristy, it was still stunning. After a stroll around the perimeter, Lucan and I opted for the uphill climb to the Teahouse, which promised spectacular views. Whilst they were nice, they were upstaged massively by an unexpected lake which fed a waterfall, and had a lush green backdrop with snow-topped mountains to finish. Although it’s only 3.5km from the bottom, most people don’t make it up there, which only added to its majesty.

Teahouse surprise

Lake Louise

View from the Fairmont

After Banff came Canmore, a cool ski town with a young, happy vibe. I think the spot we chose to camp, a fair way into the provincial park was the best yet. We nestled ourselves away from the dirt road, behind a lake and snuggled up to a forest (which was also home to a few bears, according to the warning signs). We took advantage of our find and spent the morning cooking, after which I sat by the fire typing away, whilst Lucan read. It was utter bliss.

The rest of the day we spent on the road, headed for Waterton National Park in southern Alberta. It has to be said, once you’re out of the Rockies you’re pretty much at the mercy of some really dismal landscape. And it lasts for hours. Fortunately I loaded my iPod with 10,000 songs before we left and so we were more than entertained, courtesy of Miss Winehouse and The Temptations, to mention but a few. Sadly we reached the National Park just before sundown and so decided to cut our loses and head for the border crossing. Once that was done and dusted we were ready to start the State-side part of our road trip.